Category: succulents

  • Pruning, Pinching And Thinning: My Garden’s New Best Friends

    Pruning, pinching and thinning.

    Some gardeners consider these three of their least favorite words. Why does the thought of cutting a plant scare us so much, especially when all the experts say that what we’re supposed to do? 

    For me, it used to feel wrong to cut what you’ve coaxed to grow. It felt cruel and wasteful. I had trouble getting past the feeling that these plants are my fragile babies and a sharp pair of pruners is something I need to protect them from.

    Totally wrong. 

    Often as a gardener, I’ve looked at a sad looking flower or a stalled out vegetable plant flummoxed about what I can do to improve it. The answer is often that I should have pruned, pinched or thinned. 

    We always want more plants and vegetables. With gardening, it’s often true that less will equal more in the end. We need to cut to grow. Here are some examples where I’ve learned this first hand.

    Overgrown basil. I’ve overseed basil and just couldn’t bring myself to thin out the seedlings. Here’s how it goes: I sow too many seeds and try to will them all into thriving, but the whole pot turns into a leggy mess. The seedlings fight each other for water and light and I end up with no pesto. 

    Just do what it says on the seed packet. If you’re using peat pots or cells, thin to one seedling per cell when they have two sets of true leaves. My packet of seeds says one seedling per 12 inches. That means one healthy seedling is good enough for most containers. One healthy basil plant is better than none. 

    When I somewhat miraculously grew a plant, I didn’t want to pinch it. So it grew taller and taller until it just flopped over. Pinch the top leaves off a basil plant after two sets of true leaves. And that takes me into the same issue with zinnias.

    Leggy zinnias. Zinnias will grow and bloom just fine, even if you don’t prune or pinch them. When you don’t prune, however, each plant grows into very tall stems with only a few flowers.

    Zinnias unpinched (left) and pinched (right)
    Zinnias unpinched (left) and pinched (right)

    This is because of the principle of apical dominance, which I learned about from Proven Winners during a Twitter chat. Wikipedia’s description is a little technical, but it means that in some plants, hormones direct it to grow up through a tall main stem. When you pinch at the top of that stem, you stop that drive to grow up and instead spur the plant to grow out, through other secondary buds and then branches. 

    When I learned this, it pretty much changed everything for me. Now I’ve pinched back all of my zinnias after their third set of true leaves and they’re already stout and bushy. Take a look at the side-by-side comparison with last year’s zinnias.

    Strawberries and tomatoes: Pinching to direct energy. I read a suggestion online that gardeners should pinch all blossoms off first year strawberry plants in order to direct energy into making the plant’s root system stronger. Makes total sense but I’m not sure that I have the willpower to skip out on fresh strawberries all season. I pinched off the first few flushes of flowers, but I’m now not-so-patiently awaiting a harvest. 

    The idea of directing energy by pruning is the same with tomatoes. Pruning suckers out of tomato plant armpits directs energy into the already established stems or developing fruits. This also prevents your plant from growing into a tangle of branches, which can restrict airflow around the plant and lead to disease. 

    Too tall jade plant. I’ve grown jade plants till they were spindly and tall, while really hoping to have cool-looking branching plants. This is one where I was definitely scared to prune. They seemed to grow so slowly. And what if I cut too much? 

    After I read enough articles online, my top-heavy plants tipped over for the last time. I built up the courage to pull out my pruners and cut. And, thanks again to apical dominance, two new little plant shoots came out of each cut. 

    Increase zucchini and pumpkin production. This is my latest learning: prune zucchini and pumpkin…at some point. My zucchini production last year was ok, but there’s room for improvement and I think pruning could help. 

    I looked around the internet a little about when and where to prune. I’m still a little unclear on the right technique, but I’ll keep researching. If you have any thoughts, please let me know. 

    So I’m ruthless in the garden now. I cut. I trust the wisdom of the generations of gardeners before me. When they tell me to cut, I cut. And it’s working so far. 

  • Succulent Trees: Not Just Jades Anymore

    When rosette-type succulents get leggy and stretched, what do you do with them? Chop off the healthy rosette at top and replant it, right? Maybe take the remaining leaves and propagate?

    Well, I saw this post on Fat Plant Farm’s Instagram feed earlier this week that showed another alternative: removing the lower leaves, creating a tree form. Succulent trees! And it’s not just a jade tree that you’re used to seeing, but rosette trees.

    And they are adorable. Fat Plant Farm is calling them mini palm trees.

    It’s cute. What happens from here for these plants? Do they grow more lower leaves that you just remove? Do they grow taller and flop over? I’m curious now.

    Once I started looking for these types of succulent trees, I found a few more…

     

    Have you seen anything like this before? Maybe around Instagram and Pinterest? It’s new to me. Have you grown a succulent tree like this one? How’s it going? Let me know in the comments or on Twitter @howtonaturechat.

  • Preventing Watering Problems In Hens And Chicks Succulents

    sempervivum hen and chicks
    What have I done to this poor hen and chicks? Read on to find out.

    Why can’t I get a sempervivum (also known as hens and chicks) to survive? I’ve grown succulents like jade and haworthia plants that have propagated many new plants. They’re all over my house.

    But I’d just about had it with failure after failure with hens and chicks when I reached out to Altman Plants for help. Bob Reidmuller is resident horticulturist at Altman Plants, one of the largest greenhouse operations in the United States. He looked at all the details of my situation and shared an absolute treasure trove of information with me on this succulent. It was as if I made one bad decision after another about caring for these plants, and the dominoes all fell quickly after that.

    “A common mistake with succulents is that when they start looking bad, people start giving them more water,” Reidmuller told me. “Nine times out of ten the water caused the problem in the first place and the roots are rotting or collapsed. More water just finishes things off!”

    So here’s how to care for hens and chicks properly, according to Reidmuller.

    Domino #1: Pot size. If you are growing each sempervivum in its own pot, the pot should be just a bit bigger than the plant. When the pot is too big, its enormous soil volume gets wet and stays wet. The plant and the roots don’t want to sit in damp soil for the length of time it would take for it to dry out. This is a perfect recipe for root rot.

    I did this wrong right off the bat. While some succulents may be more forgiving than sempervivums, they all run this same risk. It is better to gradually move them into bigger and bigger pots as they fill out the previous smaller ones.

    Domino #2: Drainage. Be sure that your containers have drainage holes. Otherwise, you’re going to have succulent soup and, again, root rot.

    Domino #3. Soil mix. The soil mix should be very well-draining, not heavy and soggy. You can improve your mix with Perlite or pumice.

    Domino #4: How to water succulents. When you water, do it thoroughly so the entire soil mass gets wet and water is flushing out of the drain hole in the bottom.

    “Never let the pot sit in a saucer of standing water,” Reidmuller says. “Once it has been thoroughly watered it shouldn’t need watering again for probably a week. This varies due to ambient humidity, sunlight, lots of things.”

    So here’s a trick from Reidmuller: Push a bamboo skewer or wooden chopstick into the pot all the way to the bottom and leave it there. When the stick is dry about half way down inside the soil, it’s time to water. If not, put it back in and check again later.

    “One rule of watering succulents is that if you are not sure if it needs watering, don’t,” Reidmuller says. “They will survive drier conditions longer far better than being too wet too long.” Also, clay pots dry out faster than plastic pots. Personal preference, watering practices and where the plants are growing help you decide which type of pot is best for you.

    A Better Way To Grow Sempervivum
    Growing succulents indoors is usually very difficult because of insufficient light.

    “There are some succulents that are perfectly happy spending the winter under a blanket of snow, and actually need that for optimum health and performance,” Reidmuller says. “Sempervivums are one of them!”

    Healthy sempervivum plants that are acclimated to being outdoors can be grown outside in full to partial sun all year, even in containers. In cold, rainy winter areas, potted sempervivums should be moved to a protected area (under the eaves of the house or under light corrugated plastic or something similar) to keep out winter rains. These types of overhead cover will keep the pots drier.

    So in the end, my sempervivum couldn’t be saved, but I’ll try again next year — outside with new, healthy plants.

  • Succulent Identification: What Are These Plants?

    It makes me crazy not knowing the names of plants I own. It is much more difficult to find care recommendations. And inevitably someone will ask me the names of these unnamed mystery plants. My lorem ipsum plants.

    A few weeks ago, I picked up 35 gorgeous, beautiful succulent cuttings. No names. Now I’m working on piecing together genus/species on them. Picked up a few good leads on Instagram, and then I found this video:

    Great start. My plant ID sweet spot is annuals. I’m building knowledge on succulents and this is a big help. What are other resources for identifying all these great succulents that are so popular right now? Please leave your favorites in the comments or tweet me @howtonaturechat.

  • This Is What Spring Looks Like: Succulent Leaf Propagation

    The colors in this photo mean spring to me. Succulents have started to grow again, and a few leaves dropped off my jelly bean plant/pork and beans plant/Sedum rubrotinctum.

    The plant these fell off of is about a year old and have become leggy and not so pretty. I have visions of six new healthy, strong plants dancing in my head.

    I’m working on growing and propagating succulents in thrillers, fillers and spillers categories to build some great combos. Can’t wait.

    Pork and beans plant jelly bean plant

  • This Plant Is Elephant Food: What I Want To Know About The Plants I Buy

    Portulacaria aura 'Variegata' elephant food succulent
    Portulacaria aura ‘Variegata’

    I’m a sucker for the succulent display at The Home Depot. I always stop to see what’s new for sale while I’m picking up my sheets of drywall and two-by-fours. This week, I found Portulacaria aura ‘Variegata,’ a succulent with tiny leaves on sturdy stems. I thought, “Eh, pretty cute.”

    Then I read the rest of the pot label:

    “Drought tolerant when established, a form of the South African ‘Elephant Bush,’ a major food source of the native elephant population.”

    It’s elephant food. After I read that portion of the label, I pretty much had to have the plant.

    I want tags and labels to tell me how to take care of plants, but I also want this kind of information when I buy. Having a collection of stories behind my plants turns my garden into a novel. They’re more than just beautiful. They’re how I connect to nature and the wide world around me.